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Constructing and Mounting the High Boned Collar


Steps to construct the boned collar for this design. CLICK ON THIS THUMBNAIL TO OPEN ALBUM. Click on any photo in the album to enlarge.

29 files, last one added on Jun 25, 2016
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Random files - 1911-A-015 Ladies' Fancy Blouse with Contrast & Embroidery
1 viewsA closer view of the construction of the collar, from the inside (wrong side).
3 viewsStep 5, view of the left half of the organza layers and outer collar pinned together.
4 viewsClose-up of right-hand side of organza collar layer. The bottom of the first boning channel (organza strip) on the right has been trimmed even with the bottom of the organza collar.
3 viewsStep 4: Here the right side (good side) of the boned organza collar layer has been basted to the wrong side of the second organza collar layer. The boning channels on the wrong side are still facing up toward the camera. CLICK TO SEE DETAILS.

Note that the bottoms of the organza strips (boning channels) have all been trimmed even with the bottom of the organza collar by this point.
1 viewsClose-up of the right half of the organza collar, showing the bones sewn into their channels. Note that each bone has been cut slightly shorter than the channel at top and bottom.

This is important for 3 reasons: 1) to provide for turning of the cloth at the top seam of the collar later; 2) to ensure the bottom of the collar can be sewn to the blouse without the bones getting in the way; and 3) to allow some vertical flexibility and movement in the collar when worn.
2 viewsStep 3: The bones have been inserted into the organza strips (boning channels), and the organza collar has been stay-stitched across the top to encase the bones permanently in the channels.

For this collar, we used artificial whalebone in a narrow (1/4") width -- this is a plastic/nylon product that mimics the characteristics of true whalebone. Its fine thickness, firmness and yet good flexibility make it especially suitable for collars.
1 views(Still Step 6) - Close-up of right half of organza/shantung collar section after basting together, seen from the right side (good side) of shantung collar.
2 viewsStep 5, close-up view of collar layers pinned together. CLICK on photo to see more detail. As noted on the previous photo, the right side (good side) of the outer shantung collar is face down at the bottom of these layers.

Last additions - 1911-A-015 Ladies' Fancy Blouse with Contrast & Embroidery
8 viewsEnvelope cover for our blouse pattern #1911-A-015. Our sample blouse made from this design in size Large, is shown during construction in the following photos. The sample blouse was made of lightweight cream silk shantung with black contrast sections and black machine embroidery.

See photos of the completed blouse in the album under Edwardian garments entitled: "BLOUSES, SKIRTS, SPORTING WEAR & ACCESSORIES" (below).
Jun 25, 2016
3 views(Still Step 8) - Close-up showing the collar pinned to the blouse (right sides together). Note the lining is left entirely free at this point. It will be turned over to the inside of the blouse and its pressed edge slip-stitched in place after the collar joining seam has been sewn. CLICK on photo to see even more detail.

After this step, refer to Steps (9)(d)(viii) through (xi) of the Sewing Instructions to complete the fitting and final finishing of the collar.
Jun 25, 2016
6 viewsStep 8: Here the bottom edge of the layered collar has been pinned to the blouse (with right side of the shantung against the right side of the blouse), in preparation for permanently sewing the collar onto the blouse. (This represents Steps (9)(d)(v) and (vi) of the Sewing Instructions for this design. This seam must also be trimmed and graded (and clipped where necessary).Jun 25, 2016
1 viewsHere the lining has been pulled up out of the way in order to show the top joining seam allowances on the inside. Note that as this top seam is slightly curved, the allowances have been trimmed, graded, and clipped slightly. Jun 25, 2016
1 viewsA closer view of the construction of the collar, from the inside (wrong side).Jun 25, 2016
3 views(Still Step 7) -- Here the entire collar has been turned over and the lining pulled up in order to show the boned organza layer underneath. Note that the bottom edge of the lining has been pressed under. Jun 25, 2016
1 viewsA closer view of the collar (from the good side) as completed so far. The line of basting at the bottom is the basting done previously to sew the organza layers to the shantung layer -- the bottom edge of the collar lining should still be left free for now. Jun 25, 2016
1 viewsStep 7: Here the collar, seen from the good side, has already had the China silk lining sewn on (along the top seam, with right sides together).

This represents Step (9)(d)(iii) and (iv) in the Sewing Instructions for this blouse design. The bottom edge of the lining is still left free for now (see remaining photos in this album).
Jun 25, 2016